Foodie report #1 - Peru

Dia 14 del proyecto
Aeropuerto de La Paz, Bolivia

It is no secret within the foodie community that Lima is a fast-rising star. The globally renowned chef, Gaston Acurio, became famous for elevating his country's cuisine onto the international stage. The expansion of the elegant cevicheria, La Mar, to San Francisco and New York, introduced the world to Peruvian-style fine dining. I've been to the one in SF several times and was excited to taste more of what the country had to offer.


Regalos del mar

Lima did not disappoint. The Peruvian-Japanese fusion dinner with my Columbian friend was delectable. First appearances were normal nigiri, but the sauces were completely Peru: each fish was paired with a spicy or fruity (or both) sauce. A Sonoma chardonnay completed the international experience. The second night was decidedly less formal but no less tasty: a palta (avocado) sandwich and a lucuma (native jungle fruit similar to a mango) milkshake. Dessert was a golden ale from Sierra Andinos.

The third night was a splurge. I promised myself that I would treat myself once per country (exception: Eastern Europe is one place). So I made a reservation at the hottest new cevicheria in Lima: Amoramar in the Barranco district. It is a combination of an art gallery, open air dining space and bar. One feels instantly cool just walking in the door.

I was convinced I had died and gone to foodie heaven. The pisco sour was perfectly balanced between sweet and strong. Bread was served with a local creme fraiche blended with honey and topped with almond crumbs. My main course was a lightly seared tuna paired with roasted native orange, purple and yellow potatoes. Dessert was ice cream flavored from a local nut, which tasted like a savory chocolate. But the crown jewel was the ceviche. A mix of local fish cured with the perfect balance of lime juice, spicy peppers and salt, it simply melted in my mouth. The accompanying red onions, sweet potato slices and hominy gave texture to the dish. I think I could live on it.

The verdict on Lima = 4.5 stars

Comida del las montanas

Backpacking food is not really worth mentioning, unless you have a superstar cook and someone to carry supplies for glamping-style meals. The Salkantay trek had neither.

However, my two meals in Cusco were solid. The first was a late lunch after arriving on the overnight bus. The main bars were packed for the World Cup final, so I settled into a small cafe with a TV. The traditional Andean soup was filling and warm; a mix of local vegetables and a bit of local cheese in a chicken-based broth.The palta salad consisted of fresh-from-the-tree sliced avocados and small tomatoes. All washed down with Cusqueno beer.

The second meal was with two trekking friends at a trendy place called Greens. As the name suggests, it featured lots of veggies with optional meats. I tried the alpaca salad, which consisted of mixed greens, peppers, local cheese and alpaca. The alpaca tasted like a gamier version of lamb. It was delicious.

The verdict on Cusco = 3 stars

The final verdict on Peru = 4 stars and still rising