#feminismo

Dia 42 del proyecto, 
Madrid, Espana

I noticed the first stencil yesterday. Given the visual depiction of a woman and a priest along with the verbal content, the church wall placement couldn't be more appropriate. This morning, I passed others plastered to the side of a park wall. A guerrilla conversation about a woman's right to choose in Spain.

Rest, regroup and resume

Dia 41 del proyecto, 

Madrid, Espana

It feels like it has been an eternity since last Wednesday and Thursday, or as I have come to remember them as "dos dias del disastres." In the midst of emotional and physical exhaustion, I decided to head to Madrid to recover. Bilbao was a charming city, but unfortunately its proximity to the beaches makes it a very expensive one at the height of Spain's holiday season. In contrast, Madrid is an absolute ghost town with rock bottom hotel deals. It seemed like a great place to hole up for a few days and make some decisions. 

The decision was the right one. Maybe it is a byproduct of living in San Francisco for so long, but I feel more comfortable in large cities. Plus with half of Madrid shuttered and on holiday, the remaining people are less harried than normal. I checked into a hotel and began to decompress. I did laundry in an actual laundromat. Not just hand washing in the sink. I bought an ice pack for my Achilles sprain. I spent an evening on the patio of a cafe, drinking several glasses of rose and listening to the mixture of languages around me. My mind went blank for a bit, which was a welcome change. 

Looking for tomorrow's rainbow

Dia 38 del proyecto, 
Bilbao, Espana

It is true, that old expression, "when it rains, it pours." After just five amazing days on the Camino del Norte to Santiago de Compostela, my journey hit a bump. Actually, it was more like a massive wall. I'm still processing the full ramifications of it.

The way that yesterday started gave no indication of the misery ahead. It was a gorgeous walk from the tiny pueblo of Meakaur to the beautiful metropolis of Bilbao. I walked in the company of a delightful Englishman who has spent the last nine years living and working in Barcelona. A good pacer and great company, Gary and I reached the albergue before it opened and checked in. I decided to head into town to check email and see the famous Guggenheim museum.

However, after two days of no internet, I arrived to discover that my wonderful feline companion of the last ten years, Don Gato, had taken a turn for the worst. He has been struggling with illness off and on for the last few months. But I was not expecting the end to arrive so soon. Don Gato woke up on Wednesday morning blind, unable to smell and hard of hearing. Not wanting him to suffer further from the almost certain strokes and/or seizures, the agonizing decision was made to euthanize him.

Volver

Dia 33 del proyecto, 
San Sebastián (Donostia), Espana 

A lot happens in a decade. Especially when ten years constitutes a third of your life. Yet stepping off the plane at Bajaras felt like stepping into a time warp. Some things have changed. Madrid has given its international terminal a much needed facelift and Aerolineas Iberia was more responsible with my luggage. Yet for a moment I was instantly 20 years old again, transported to a time when my vision of the world was reshaped.

For the 30th year project, I was determined to focus on new places. Why would one go back to old ones when there are constantly new destinations to be explored? So I followed the rule. Except when my heart wouldn't let me skip Spain.

The vast majority of American university students do not study abroad. For some, it is a financial limitation; for others, it is simply a lack of interest or does not fit into their degree program. I certainly had the financial limitations, but was unwilling to let money stop me. So off I went with student loans, a gigantic suitcase, limited Spanish capabilities and no experience traveling solo outside the States.

Foodie report #2 - Chile

Dia 31 del proyecto
Entre de Madrid y San Sebastián 

Unlike my sky-high expectations for Chilean wines, I had no clear picture of its cuisine. It's neighbors have their claims to gastronomical fame: Argentina has its steaks and Peru has its trendy Peruvian fusion foods. My best guess was that Chile would deliver something in between. I was sort of correct.

What I discovered was a lack of mid-range restaurants. There were plenty of mediocre sandwich and fast food chains at rock bottom prices. One could also find a decent meal at a food stall in the mercados centrales of the larger cities. However, to experience truly good food, one must be prepared to pay a staggering rate for international-style cuisine. Peruvian fusion is trendy, as is Japanese sushi. And despite the mountains of fresh produce in the mercados, it required an act of god to find a restaurant that would use vegetables in any significant quantity. In the end, I had two great meals worth mentioning.

Weekend rituals

Dia 28 del proyecto,
Santiago de Chile

Regardless of geography, certain rituals are regularly practiced among friends....like ladies' night at the discotheques, Saturday morning yoga or a poker tournament. I miss my regular activities with my San Francisco friends, so when I was invited to join a group in their weekly "fuck-a-thon," I didn't hesitate.

Despite the name, this is not an orgy or anything remotely sexual. Every Sunday, a group of friends hailing from around the world arrive at Andres and Stephanie's apartment to watch movies that "fuck with your mind." Think Momento or The Shining or Inception. Typically the group starts in the early afternoon and continues well into the night with various movies. Popcorn, soda and chips are sustenance for the duration. Occasional stops are taken for bathroom breaks and refilling empty glasses. Discussion flows freely after each movie. It is great way to spend a gray afternoon.