Day 116 of the project,
slightly south of the Namibian border, South Africa
Of all the countries on my itinerary, few people knew much about the Republic of Namibia. The country became an independent nation in 1994. It has one of the world's lowest population densities with only 2.1 million people in its vast borders. The economy is heavily dependent on mining, but growth in tourism has prompted the creation of national parks. Namibia has the raw, uncharted ruggedness that appeals to the desert enthusiasts and adventure-seekers and discourages those looking for pampered luxury. In short, this is the sweet spot in time to visit.
My desert adventure began in Swakopmund. A former German colonial town, it straddles the mountains and the coastal sand dunes. The architecture is a mishmash of German chateaus and ugly modern concrete blocks. Several high quality brauhauses lubricate tourists and locals alike. It is a growing mecca for adventure sports ranging from kiteboarding to sand boarding to sky diving. There is little shopping and the main "cultural" activity is a tour of the uranium mine. Everything closes by 4pm with no clear reason why. It is by far one of the oddest places I have been...in the world.
In keeping with weird vibe, I did something out of character: I signed up for a day of sand boarding. It is not that I am out of shape or lazy; climbing the dunes is perfectly fine. But my well-documented lack of coordination and inclination for self-preservation has generally kept me from extreme sports. There was a good chance of injury and a guarantee of humiliation. Yet for some reason (maybe the beer?), I found myself calling Alter Action and signing up for the next morning session.
October 31, 2014
October 24, 2014
In the food chain
Day 109 of the project,
Swakopmund, Namibia
It is the amazing the amount of information that can be gathered from a pile of rhinoceros shit. Obviously, you can learn about their diet and digestive process. Rhinos only have one stomach (unlike other large herbivores) and cannot fully process their roughage...meaning the pile of poop actually looks like an explosion of half chewed twigs. Less obvious is that a dominant male will drop in his territory; other males will pass by and drop on the perimeter of his poop, which alerts him about guests in his area. It is like a message board for the rhino community. However, when a female rhino wants to get the male's attention, she will poop directly on top of his pile. Initially this will piss him off, until he realizes who left the message.
However, the most important thing you can learn from the dung is proximity to the animal. So when the pile belongs to the less social and more aggressive black rhino and is relatively fresh, your park rangers on the guided morning walk tend to get a little nervous. A bad encounter between the locals and foreign tourists is not exactly great PR.
In my normal life, I have never taken any interest in rhino shit. These creatures were an abstraction--something seen from the comfort of my living room on National Geographic. I never dreamed I would be in such close physical proximity.
Swakopmund, Namibia
It is the amazing the amount of information that can be gathered from a pile of rhinoceros shit. Obviously, you can learn about their diet and digestive process. Rhinos only have one stomach (unlike other large herbivores) and cannot fully process their roughage...meaning the pile of poop actually looks like an explosion of half chewed twigs. Less obvious is that a dominant male will drop in his territory; other males will pass by and drop on the perimeter of his poop, which alerts him about guests in his area. It is like a message board for the rhino community. However, when a female rhino wants to get the male's attention, she will poop directly on top of his pile. Initially this will piss him off, until he realizes who left the message.
However, the most important thing you can learn from the dung is proximity to the animal. So when the pile belongs to the less social and more aggressive black rhino and is relatively fresh, your park rangers on the guided morning walk tend to get a little nervous. A bad encounter between the locals and foreign tourists is not exactly great PR.
In my normal life, I have never taken any interest in rhino shit. These creatures were an abstraction--something seen from the comfort of my living room on National Geographic. I never dreamed I would be in such close physical proximity.
October 15, 2014
Cheers to the solo ladies
Day 100 of the project,
somewhere outside Port Elizabeth, South Africa
There can be many challenges in being a single female traveler. Security and acceptance of your solo status are obvious. Other issues are less obvious--when is the last time you had to figure out the word "tampon" in Hungarian? Or tried to explain the necessity of a 15-euro pedicure to a bewildered male bunk mate?
In spite of the nuisances, being a solo female traveler strengthens you beyond measure and opens your heart in a way you never thought possible. And perhaps the best reflection of that openness can be found in the relationships with other women.
somewhere outside Port Elizabeth, South Africa
There can be many challenges in being a single female traveler. Security and acceptance of your solo status are obvious. Other issues are less obvious--when is the last time you had to figure out the word "tampon" in Hungarian? Or tried to explain the necessity of a 15-euro pedicure to a bewildered male bunk mate?
In spite of the nuisances, being a solo female traveler strengthens you beyond measure and opens your heart in a way you never thought possible. And perhaps the best reflection of that openness can be found in the relationships with other women.
October 3, 2014
Global is the new local
Day 88 of the project,
Tesvikiye neighborhood of Istanbul, Turkey
In the digital age of constant global connectivity, most travelers (myself included) are seeking the "authentic" cultural experience. We want the full sensory overload: the sights (the architecture, shops and museums); the tastes (spicy, sweet, salty, savory, boozy); the heart and soul (language, religion and customs). We want this to be untainted with any of the familiarity of home. And above all, we want to engage with the locals.
In this cosmopolitan place where Europe meets Asia, secular meets religious and old meets new, I expected to easily escape the tourist traps in Istanbul. That is not to say I didn't enjoy the tourist circuit. I spent hours roaming the Istanbul Modern and Pera Museum and staring at the gorgeous tiles and calligraphy inside the mosques. I tried my hand at negotiations inside the bazaars. My stomach certainly engaged with the local cuisine. And my caffeine levels are at an all time high from the copious consumption of Turkish coffee and tea.
Tesvikiye neighborhood of Istanbul, Turkey
In the digital age of constant global connectivity, most travelers (myself included) are seeking the "authentic" cultural experience. We want the full sensory overload: the sights (the architecture, shops and museums); the tastes (spicy, sweet, salty, savory, boozy); the heart and soul (language, religion and customs). We want this to be untainted with any of the familiarity of home. And above all, we want to engage with the locals.
In this cosmopolitan place where Europe meets Asia, secular meets religious and old meets new, I expected to easily escape the tourist traps in Istanbul. That is not to say I didn't enjoy the tourist circuit. I spent hours roaming the Istanbul Modern and Pera Museum and staring at the gorgeous tiles and calligraphy inside the mosques. I tried my hand at negotiations inside the bazaars. My stomach certainly engaged with the local cuisine. And my caffeine levels are at an all time high from the copious consumption of Turkish coffee and tea.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)