Surface tension

Day 152 of the project, 
Christchurch, NZ

"Why are you going to Singapore?" asked my Thai interviewer, with a touch of disdain in his voice. It was a common question, asked by many who dismiss it as a superficial shopping mall in the heart of rambunctious, gritty Southeast Asia. Singapore lacks fiscal accessibility and offers no real claim to fame to justify the expense. In the mind of most backpackers, it is no more than a stopover.

Yet my curiosity was piqued by this tiny nation and I purposefully added it to my itinerary. Originally a British colony that gained independence in 1965, Singapore is a microcosm of Asia. Ethnic Chinese are the majority, followed by Malay, Indian, Indonesian and Japanese. Not to mention the pinches of Thai, Cambodian and white expats in various corners. To borrow from Americana, it is a "salad bowl" of diversity.

The effect is pronounced. From the various ethnic enclaves of specificity to the designer fusions on top of elegant hotels, the impact is almost overwhelming. I spent the first day silently marveling at the rainbow of faces on the metro. So many languages, smells and sounds. The rich tapestry of human variety provides cultural depth with little conflict.

But day three is when cracks began to emerge from the nearly flawless patina. Singapore maintains a delicate equilibrium between peace and chaos; its maintenance is directly connected to strict control. The country is famous for the no chewing gum ordinances and death penalties for drug convictions. Sexual assault is punishable by caning. The metro propaganda/signage is saccharine. The last riots occurred in Little India last year and a crackdown on public alcohol consumption followed shortly thereafter. The message is clear: stability among diversity comes with a heavy hand from the government.

Is the Singaporean approach to managing ethnic diversity right or wrong? Culturally, I am in no  position to judge. Privileged, white American society (myself included) likes to pretend racism and xenophobia are problems of the past. At least until a fissure develops in the thin veneer and eruptions like the Ferguson fiasco make global headlines. This problem is not unique to the United States...I'm looking at you, white Europe-Africa-Australia.

In our ever-globalized, transient world, what is the appropriate solution for maintaining peace? Can a heterogeneous society work out its racial and ethnic issues without heavy government control? Or is restriction better than clashes? The jury is still out as the spectrum of experiments continue around the globe. One thing is for certain--as globalization continues to mix people, it will be fascinating to watch the results unfold.